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PSPv7 TUTORIAL
Masterstoneman 3-D TEDDYBEAR


Don't know how you feel about working from a saved webpage, on a tutorial in Paint Shop Pro, I find it kind of hard to juggle the two windows. Made this text page so it would be easier for you have the complete information, as you work. You can print it out or copy & paste to your note pad, but you need to save this page, somehow, as its not just a general how-to, but "each & every" step that I took, so you can get the same results. Hope this doesn't give the impression that this tutorial is too involved, it really isn't that difficult, I tried my best to make it as easy as possible, by providing this page, the template and the pattern.
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GETTING STARTED

    1. Open a new image 330 x 330 pixels, transparent, 16 million colors, 72 for web resolution.

    2. Open the saved jpg files: btemplate and bpattern...cut/paste both as new layers, right click on these layers in the layers palette, choose re-name, make them template & pattern. Don't move the pattern...leave it in the middle. Then clear your clipboard and save this file as "bear" (SAVE AS). Actually, you can save this file named anyway you want, just so you can find it again : )

    3. The color palette should have everything locked, except the top two boxes. The main colors used:
      BROWN: #8E6A40   TAN: #DFB88F

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BASIC BEAR BODY
(only five steps to a 3-D brown bear)

    1. Selecting & Filling shape:
    > Set Magic Wand to: mode: RBG, tolerance: 40, feather: 2
    > Make the template layer active, click with the wand on the background or white space (anywhere outside of the shapes) not on a shape. If the text inside of the shape is selected, you clicked in the wrong place (on the shape itself).
    > Go to Selections/Invert...You only need to make this selection ONCE. Leave this selection turned on, as you fill each shape on a new layer. As long as you fill on a NEW LAYER for EACH SHAPE, it doesn't matter that all are selected. This step saves going to the Template to make a selection for each shape. This selection will remain constant for each new layer.
    > Set color in color palette as top/on, bottom off/locked, solid color: the brown.
    > Make a new raster layer, name it "arm 1".
    > Select the Fill tool at whatever setting you generally use. Fill this layer with the brown.
    > Repeat this step for all shapes except the "ear", name each layer as it is on the template.
    > Selections/select none, after these six layers are done.

    IMPORTANT: make the new layer 1st, name it... then fill it. Make sure the template is NOT the active layer when you do the fill, otherwise you will be filling the Template, instead of the shape layer! You should have six new layers, one for each shape.

    1a. the Ear:
    > Make the template layer active & with the Magic Wand click on the ear between the lines (do not invert this selection)
    > Make a new raster layer, named "ear"... fill with the brown.
    > Selections/select none (SAVE).

    2. Re-defining & Resizing the shape:
    Now you have seven rather fuzzy looking shapes. After experimenting with the wand tolerance, this was the only way I found to sharpen them up a bit and still keep them feathered. Have found that selections not feathered are way too jagged, if you know of way to prevent this, would appreciate the help. Don't substitute the sharpen filter for this step, this also cuts the shapes back into the size on the template. You won't need this step with the light parts, they aren't made with selections, but with a solid Preset shape, which turns out much more sharp & sans "jaggies".
    > Reset the Magic Wand to: mode: RBG, tolerance: 40, feather: 1
    > Make the template layer active, click between the shapes with the wand.
    > Selections/Modify/Expand, set the number to 2, click OK.
    > W/the Mover, click on arm 1 shape, this will make this layer active. Press the Delete key on your KEYBOARD (don't delete from the edit menu or the layers palette that will remove the whole image & not just the edges).
    > Repeat this step for each layer...total of seven.
    > Selections/select none, you should now see the template outline around each shape (SAVE).

    3. Beveling this fellow into 3-D:
    >Turn off the template & pattern layers. Turning off these layers isn't a necessity, these won't show in the Bevel window, but it will let you see the finished shape without any distractions.
    > Click on the first shape w/Mover and go to Effects/3-D/Inner Bevel.
    > Use these settings:
    / Bevel: #2/ Width: 31/ Smoothness: 100/ Depth: 26/ Ambience: -19/ Shininess: 0/
    / Color: #EBDAB7/ Angle: 315/ Intensity: 37/ Elevation: 75/

    > Press the Save as...button in this dialog box to save this as a preset, you can always delete this later. Call it what ever you want, am suggesting "bear-dark", there are two other bevel settings in this tutorial.
    > Repeat the same Inner Bevel for all layers, except for the ear, change the depth to 60 (SAVE).

    4. More 3-D w/Drop Shadow:
    This step will make the shapes puff-up and round out some of the jagged edges, this only works on darker colors...it emphasizes the "jaggies" on light color shapes made from a filled selection.
    > Click on parts, one-by-one, with the Mover
    > Go to Effects/3-D/Drop Shadow
    > Use these settings on each:
    /Vertical: 2/ Horizontal: 1/ Opacity: 100%/ Blur: 8/ Color: black/ (SAVE)

    5. Come together right now:
    At this point would suggest making a second file called bear2 so (SAVE) & (SAVE AS) & continue on, this way you will have a file with the finished parts separate, in case you want to arrange or color the bear differently later, as this step merges all the brown parts.
    > Turn the template off & the pattern on, as the bottom layer, w/Mover move each shape over its corresponding section on the pattern.
    > Now arrange your Layers palette in this order, starting from top layer down:
    /head /ear /arm 1 /body /leg 1 /leg 2 /arm 2 /pattern /template (off) /
    > Duplicate the ear layer, go to Image/Mirror move this ear into place.
    > Make the pattern layer 50% on the Opacity slider in the Layer palette and move it to the top layer, make any position adjustments of the brown parts.
    > Turn pattern off ... delete the template, you won't need it anymore.
    > Merge/VISIBLE brown layers & re-name this layer "brown" (SAVE).
    > Now you have a basic dimensional bear that you could personalize any way you want...the next steps make it look like the tutorial image.
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THE LIGHT PARTS


    1. Preset Shape/Elipse:
    Of the two layers in the layers palette, the brown layer (merged bear) should be on the bottom under the pattern, turn pattern back on, too, and leave it at 50% opacity. All the light parts: inside ear, snout, belly, pad (palm), digit (finger?), foot and eyeball are made with the same preset shape...ellpse, as a filled shape.
    > Color setting bottom/on, top off/locked, solid color: the tan.
    >Click on the image with the Zoom tool and enlarge x1 and x2 for the digit, I work in zoom alot and it really helps here.
    >Go to Preset shapes, choose the elipse, retain style UNchecked. Put the mouse over the ear on the pattern, click & arrange the nodes to fit inside the outer part of the ear, but not to the very edge & not so small it doesn't go past the hole in the brown ear.
    > When you have the shape you want, go to the Layers palette, right click on this vector layer, choose convert to raster layer... re-name this layer "ear".
    > Next put your mouse over the snout match your shape to just inside the edges of the pattern, convert to raster and re-name it snout.
    > Repeat this same step for all the other tan parts, except the eyeball, which is done exactly the same, but change the color to white (SAVE).

    2. Plumping the parts with a 3-D Bevel:
    > Click on the first part with the Mover, go to Effects/3-D/Inner Bevel.
    > Use these settings:
    / Bevel: #2/ Width: 31/ Smoothness: 98/ Depth: 20/ Ambience: -15/ Shininess: 15/
    / Color: #E7E1D3/ Angle: 318/ Intensity: 37/ Elevation: 54/

    > Press the Save as...button in this dialog box, to save this as a preset, you can always delete this later. Call it what ever you want, am suggesting "bear-light", there is one more bevel setting in this tutorial.
    > Repeat the same Inner Bevel for all parts, except the digit, increase the depth to 50 and reduce the width to 1 for this part.
    > After beveling, duplicate the digit layer twice, move into place, behind the pad using the pattern as guide.
    > Move the inner-ear behind the brown layer, duplicate and Image/mirror it, move into place (SAVE).

    3. Even more 3-D w/Drop Shadow:
    Only the snout, eyeball and foot are given a Drop Shadow. Go to Effects/3-D/Drop Shadow
    > Use these settings on the SNOUT:
    /Vertical: 1/ Horizontal: 2/ Opacity: 100%/ Blur: 12/ Color: black/

    >Use these settings on the EYEBALL:
    /Vertical: -1/ Horizontal: -1/ Opacity: 100%/ Blur: 12/ Color: black/ Duplicate the eyeball layer, Image/Mirror, re-position this layer via the pattern.

    > Use these settings on the FOOT:
    /Vertical: -1/ Horizontal: -1/ Opacity: 80%/ Blur: 14/ Color: black/ re-position the foot at the very end of the brown leg (SAVE).

    4. To merge or not to merge:
    I would leave all as separate layers for possible future use, there's not that many layers to make to the finished piece, now.
    > If you like working with only a few layers at a time and have all the tan parts and eyeballs in the right place you can merge/visible with the brown layer, turn off the pattern first!
    > Move the pattern to the top layer, make any position adjustments.
    > Layer palette order at this point should be, starting from top layer down:
    /pattern /snout /copy of eyeball /eyeball /belly /pad /digit /copy of digit /copy of digit /foot /brown /copy of ear /ear /
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THE DETAILS


    1. the Eyes:
    > Color setting bottom/on, top off/locked, solid color: black.
    > Choose the Preset Shapes/Elipse, still working in Zoom, position the mouse over the left eye on the pattern, the elipse will have to turn slightly, convert to raster layer, re-name it eye.
    > Change color settings to the top on, bottom off/locked, solid color: white
    > Choose the Paint Brush set to size #4 /round, using the right eye on the pattern, as reference, place a dot in the eye, either right on the eye layer or make new layer.
    > Duplicate, but don't mirror, place over the right eye on the pattern (SAVE).

    2. the Nose:
    > Stay in Zoom. Change color setting bottom/on, top off/locked, solid color: black.
    > Choose Preset Shapes/Hexagon. Position over nose on pattern, move nodes til you get something like the pattern, convert to raster layer, re-name nose.
    > Go to Effects/Blur, blur one time.

    > Go to Effects/3-D/Inner Bevel. Use these settings:
    / Bevel: #1/ Width: 3/ Smoothness: 77/ Depth: 18/ Ambience: 15/ Shininess: 67/
    / Color: #DBF7F7/ Angle: 326/ Intensity: 28/ Elevation: 75/
    > This is the last Inner Bevel setting, its up to you if you want to save it as a preset.

    > Go to Effects/3-D/Drop Shadow. Use these settings:
    /Vertical: 3/ Horizontal: 4/ Opacity: 50%/ Blur: 5/ Color: black/ (SAVE).

    3. the Mouth:
    > If you don't have the Font SWISS 721 SWA either install it in you font folder or just open it before you open PSP and it will appear in you text list in PSP.
    > Stay in Zoom. Color setting bottom/on, top off/locked, solid color: black.
    >Make new raster layer, name it mouth.
    > Choose the Text tool, click on area near the mouth from the pattern. In text dialog box select type face: SWISS 721 SWA in 20pt, type in Cap "J", choose OK, depending how you have your text set-up, Selections/select none to set text on this layer.
    > Position this layer over the left side of mouth on pattern, duplicate this layer, Image/mirror and move new layer so the down-stroke of the "J" is over the left one and the downstroke is one weight or thickness.
    > Turn all layers off, except these two, make one of them active, Merge/Visible, re-name this layer mouth.
    > Turn on all the layers, except the pattern, make the mouth the active layer.
    > Go to Effects/3-D/Drop Shadow and use these settings:
    / Vertical: 1/ Horizontal: type 0 in this box/ Opacity: 100%/ Blur: 4/ Color: move your mouse over to the image and the pointer will turn into the dropper, pick a lighter color from the snout, but not the highlight, hit OK, then Ok again in dialog box.
    > Turn the pattern back on, make it the active layer (SAVE).

    4. Hand & Foot:
    > Change color settings to top/on, bottom off/locked, solid color: #53391D.
    > Make a new raster layer, name it hand. Choose the Draw tool/ type: single line/ width: 2/ antialias checked. Draw three lines following the pattern at the hand position.
    > Repeat the same proceedures to make the foot, name it foot 2.
    > Go to Effects/3-D/Drop Shadow. Use these settings for both layers:
    / Vertical: 1/ Horizontal: 2/ Opacity: 100%/ Blur: 8/ Color: #DCB792/
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THE END

    Final Layer palette order:
    > Move the pattern, still @ 50%, to the top layer, to make any position adjustments on any of these final layers. If you didn't merge the light parts...
    > The layers order should look like this, starting from top layer down:

    /pattern /foot 2 /hand /nose /mouth /copy of eye /eye /snout /copy of eyeball /
    /eyeball /belly /pad /digit /copy of digit /copy of digit /foot /brown /copy of ear /ear /

    > Delete the pattern. You can now Merge/visible OR...
    > (SAVE) the file, do the merge, make your jpg, go to Edit/un-merge and keep your file in layers, so you have all the parts for future use. I do the latter, never know when I might want to recycle an eyeball ... this way I won't have to make it again : D

    Final 3-D note:
    The finished image will have some drop shadow, but not enough to interfere with any further type of shadowing that you may want to add. i.e. I added more drop shadow to the merged tutorial graphic seen on my webpage, which is reduced to 85% of tutorial size, if you want your image this way... this is the Effects/3-D/Drop Shadow used:
    / Vertical: 4/ Horizontal: -6/ Opacity: 100%/ Blur: 22/ Color: #4b3b49 (a dark grey-purple) You can use any color of your choice & if using a blur this large, allow enough bg space around the perimeter or you will have a boxed image, when adding it to a webpage.

    Hope you try this tutorial and that you enjoy your results.

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